The other evening I was summoned by Virage Vineyards Proprietor, Emily Richer, to assist with a pre-harvest trim. This took place on a vineyard block planted with cabernet franc & merlot up on Atlas Peak, located at the eastern side of Napa Valley, due east of Yountville. we were actually on the western side of the peak if you follow me. This particular vineyard has a slope with it's high point at the south giving it a more north facing orientation. The mission here since the grapes were hitting the 25 degree brix count, was to remove any damaged or overripened fruit from the clusters and vines prior to harvest in a few hours. It was a beautiful fall evening with temps in the low 60's and dropping. We began around 5:30 pm and for the next 3 and a half hours, flashflights in hand, proceeded down each row, checking every cluster for unwanted fruit that could have a very undesireable effect on what appears will be a fantastic harvest & vintage. According to the meticulous and obsessed Emily, if any of this fruit were to find its way into the tanks during crush, the effect could be disasterous. The overripe fruit has much higher sugar levels that are quite raisin like to taste and would not only provide an "off taste" to the juice but, could elevate the alcohol levels to an undesireable height. "We aren't making port here!" proclaimed Emily.
Emily and her label Virage, are the producers of a very nice cabernet franc/merlot blend. This wine is a blend of grapes that are grown both on this vineyard at Atlas Peak, and another vineyard located down in my neighborhood, Los Carneros. The vineyard in the Carneros is located on an eastern facing slope with some southern exposure. When fruits from these two vineyards are combined, the result is a stunning bordeaux style blend that is such a pleasure to drink. Virage is a combination of delicate & rich flavored fruit with just enough structure mainly from the brightness of the cabernet franc that gives this wine its balance. Being that this is still a pretty new label, (years?) it will be very interesting to watch and see how this wine develops with a little age. I think it has a lot of complexity that will prove to be very interesting and enjoyable. The good news, the wine is priced at $50. per bottle, a fraction of the cost of many of Virage's neighbors here in Napa as well as across the pond in bordeaux.
I can't wait to try some barrel samples of the 2012 harvest to see if my handy work in the vineyard wasthe reason for a great vineyard! ;)
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